Silk Road Odyssey -The journey begins (Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan 2011)

The Silk Road; that most iconic of ancient trade routes, a mystical network of roads, paths and tracks that defied geography, traversing some of the planets harshest mountains and deserts  – all in the name of trade, knowledge and religion.  From Buddhism to Christianity, slaves to jugglers and rhubarb to cucumbers for over 1500 years it fuelled intrepid travel – in turn giving inspiration for our Wild Frontiers Silk Road Odyssey!

Odyssey?  – I prepare my group by quoting from the dictionary – ‘a long series of adventures especially filled with notable experiences and hardships’ – the latter part providing a handy caveat should I need it…! 

Our route will take us from China’s western gateway, Kyrgyzstan, south into Kashgar and then west through Tajikistan and Uzbekistan.  I’m sure along the way there will be plenty of notable experiences – and some relative hardships – after all it’s that real Silk Road experience we are looking for!  But as well as picking up the scent of ancient trails, our trip will also give us an opportunity to experience modern, post-soviet life in this rapidly changing region. 

Touching down we slipped neatly between shadowy US air force supply planes  at Manas airport – some clever dealing worthy of the Silk Road itself resulted in the Kyrgyzs hosting  both the US and Russian military.  The combined rent makes up a large slice of their GDP; it’s sad that the wealth of ancient trade routes has been replaced by the spoils from global security.  

Sunday afternoon suits the comparative sleepy charm of Bishkek, which nestles nicely beneath the snowy Tian Chan ‘heavenly’ mountains.  We wandered around leafy central parks where artists trade their wares and statues of Marx and Engels stare quizzically towards the American University – complete with Soviet star on top!  

The museum gives us an opportunity to trace the route of the ethnic Kyrgyz tribes as they migrated south from Siberia between the 10^th & 15^thcenturies to settle in the Tian Shan region.  After tussles with marauding Mongols and Manchu Chinese these Turkic tribes eventually wrested their own state only to fall to Tsarist expansion and Soviet collectivism which eroded away large chunks of their nomadic culture.   

20 years ago Kyrgyzstan was the first state to step from beneath the soviet umbrella; two revolutions later and they are the most democratic of the former soviet states – the impending election hosts no less than 83 candidates! 

Over afternoon tea we learn about the Kyrgyz handicraft traditions – unique wedding carpets and shyrdaks, felt pressings and embroidery, and then it’s off to the bazaar to get our first sense of the past. The smell of spice and bustle of the afternoon trade is the perfect way to prepare us for the journey south on ancient routes to the Jailoos, alpine meadows and the shores of Son Kol lake…

Loading ourselves, a hefty bag of supplies, some notable home-baking and a considerable amount of alcohol into our green machine we head past steam turbines that power the Kyrgyz capital into the shadows of the Tien Shan range, the celestial mountains of Chinese folklore.   To our north the Kazakhstan border hugs the modest Chui River so closely that we spend a few visa-less moments inside Kazakstan as the river snakes back and forth beneath the road.  The near 6000 metre Tien Shan peaks form a snowy procession to the south which will remain with us over the next 300 kilometres or so up to Lake Son Kul.  Over 70% of Kyrgyzstan is above 2000 metres; at times proving testing for PreZilla – but equally spectacular for all who ride in her!   Our base for the next couple of days, Son Kul lake, lies over 3000 metres above sea level, so we feel the clean air cooling and thinning as we elevate our way over passes, through valleys and across the Jailoos, alpine plains.. 

It doesn’t take long to leave civilisation behind; we spot a golden eagle circling over ghostly remains of Soviet collective farming experiments, which form mud brick skeletons beside the twisting, bumpy narrow track.  ‘PreZilla’ isn’t the quickest of vehicles, but ascending slowly gives us the opportunity to synch ourselves with the pace of life on the summer pastures.  These vast open expanses, scorched a mustard colour by the relentless sun, provide home to grazing sheep, goats and their shepherds and horsemen.  

It’s after dark when we arrive at our lakeside camp, where Norgul welcomes us to her cluster of traditional yurts.  It’s straight into number one yurt (ie the dining yurt!) to enjoy hearty Sherpa soup and freshly caught fish.  By the time we have enjoyed food and obligatory vodka toasts the dung burners have warmed our simple circular felt abodes to well above ‘cosy’ status. 

*ZIL = Zavod Imeni Ligachov