There was time enough for one more mini drama before we arrived in Tashkent. At Khiva airport Uzbek airlines shining new Boeing was grounded and so the 14 of us were split over 3 turboprop flights ten minutes apart. With the subsequent delay and doubling of the flight time, it wasn’t until the early hours that we finally experienced the luxury of an international hotel. A fitting reward for three adventurous weeks on the road.
Revived and refreshed, later that evening we regrouped at the charming Caravan restaurant for our final meal together. Dinner at last seemed to be a victory for the veggies, after the necessary dish dissecting excercises of the past three weeks. Creamy mushroom soup, steaming potato dumplings and mounds of freshly grilled vegetables had the meaties crying ‘foul’ for once!
Our final pot of green tea and pastries gave us an opportunity to reflect back on our Silk Road Odyssey, and in turn we discussed the lows and highs of our adventure together. I began my first group chat in Bishkek three weeks ago by quoting the Oxford English; ‘Odyssey’ – a long series of adventures especially filled with notable experiences and hardships’. Along the way we have certainly experienced both, so I’ll finish with the words of our group, and let you decide which of the categories they fall into..
Our sunset arrival at the majestic Registan Square in Samarkand. Spectacular mountain scenery along the Karakorum highway to Lake Karakol. Prezilla and the whole Zill experience. People. Wandering around the sleepy streets of Khiva. The longest day; travelling between Kashgar in China and Osh in Kyrgystan – eighteen hours on the road, 455 kilometres covered over three spectacular passes. Culture. Listening to the call to prayer amongst the ornate wooden painted pillars of Bukhara’s Friday mosque. Bush stops and long drops! Norgul’s hospitality at the yurt camp by Son Kul Lake. The wheelchair poetess in Istaravshan, Tajikistan. Animal market in Kashgar. Imam Abdul’s blessing at the tiny mosque in Istaravshan. The tingle of ginger and apricot scrub in the hammam.
Confronting a herd of yaks on horseback at Tash Rabat – before riding through the middle. Tomato and cucumber salads. Horse games at Son Kul Lake. The well travelled whiskey cake. Following in the footsteps of Chris ‘Aslan’ Alexander, author of ‘carpet ride to Khiva’ – showing his adopted family photos of him. The peace of Son Kul Lake. The versatility duct tape – especially taping a plastic cup to the leaky roof of the zil! Vodka toasts. Connecting with the people. The chap coming onto the bus to hand out his apples between Samarkand and Bukhara. Picnics. Breathtaking crossing between Son Kul and Tash Rabat via Baetov. The near hundred-year-old lady offering her tea and blessings…
Personally, for me, it’s the people, those chance encounters that make my tour work such a privilege. The importance of the family and how bonds within communities seem to compensate for material shortcomings. The warmth, hospitality and generosity that is shown to guests is humbling – especially from those with the very least. I fear we have lost these values somewhere in the development of a modern culture.
Our Odyssey has consisted of three strands – beauty, culture and people – all crucially linked together throughout our journey. Each strand is intimately interwoven with the others, creating the perfect fabric of life…
The Lonely Chopstick 