Nazira ushered us into a cosy room decorated with beautiful carpets and traditional wall hangings. We sat on the floor, around the teapot as she passed around photos of her late parents. The neighbourhood children had gathered in quizzically in the doorway and listened as we introduced ourselves and answered questions about our jobs. Smiles, giggles and laughter filled the room as our guide, Hamrakul gently translated.  A couple of hours later than planned, we finally managed to embrace, shake hands and wish this friendly neighbourhood a fond farewell.