Despite a murderous legacy to rival Stalin or Genghis Khan, Tamerlane is the Uzbek national hero.  A single turquoise pleated dome, littered with kufic script towers over the jade slab Gur Emir (rulers tomb) we watched a group of Fergana Valley Uzbeks participating in pilgrimage rituals.  Colourfully scarfed ladies huddled around an old man wearing a traditional felt doppa hat as he recited a blessing which was symbolically caught in cupped hands and drawn down over the face...