Winter travels in Southern Iran – Hormuz, The Rainbow Island (2019)

Islands have their own mentality. The freshness of salt fused air, beauty of the sunsets and hypnotic rhythm of lapping waves can’t fail to create calmness.

Winter travels in Southern Iran – Baluchistan (2019)

Overlooking the parade of bobbing fishing boats in the pretty harbour, I stared to the horizon, watching as a procession of tankers trudged through the Straits of Hormuz. One of the worlds most contested waterways seemed at peace; for today at least.

Winter travels in Southern Iran – Baluchistan to Hormozgon (2019)

‘For him,’ Amin explains ‘the time is fixed – winter and summer’. In Iranian Baluchistan people do things their own way. The desert has its own rules. Rules determined by tradition and nature – rather than politicians.

Experiencing the Spirit of Laos

...we took a stunning seven-hour journey, ascending into the clouds before winding down dramatically into sun-drenched valleys of dusty Hmong and Khmu villages. This is Laos at its best; thatched wooden houses clinging impossibly to the side of mountains or besides rivers and streams. Clusters of traditionally dressed villagers, with baskets on their backs emerged from the jungle as we approached their tiny settlements. Slowing down to negotiate a safe route through grubby toddlers, nervy chickens and dozing buffalo...

The crocodile men of the Sepik River (2020)

Witnessing the ceremonial carving of young, fresh skin with razor sharp bamboo is a memory for life. Black skin, pink flesh and scarlet blood; a real-life horror show. This August I found myself back on the Sepik River, in the spirit house at Yen Jen village, where I had witnessed that brutal initiation 7 years previously. Some … Continue reading The crocodile men of the Sepik River (2020) →

In praise of the Persian Plate..

I’m still amused by the paradox of a black cloaked grandmother stuffing that ultimate symbol of the ‘Great Satan’ - a burger - into the hood of her chador. It’s not all bad though – fresh potatoes produce the fattest chips in autumn along with bubbling vats of hot caramalised beetroots while fresh juice stalls offer some zing to cleanse the yang of the grease.

40 years ago, the Clash’s ‘London Calling’ hit the streets. A good time to reflect on the epic Spotify podcasts…

"It's a jolly good fucked up story, The Clash’’. Not wrong, Johnny Green (Clash crew legend). Having listened (several times) as Chuck D brilliantly narrates his way through 7 hours of first-hand Clash memories, from studio punch ups to ‘jingle bells dribbling from 36 tracks’ (Sandinista!), you’d be a fool not to agree with the former Clash roadie. Legendary producer … Continue reading 40 years ago, the Clash’s ‘London Calling’ hit the streets. A good time to reflect on the epic Spotify podcasts… →

Above the clouds in Iran (2018)

Iran fascinates me - history, politics, people - the paradox. From the old men defiantly singing under beautiful Safavid bridges to the postcard seller who fetches bread for my picnics, the cities are full of stories and characters. Yet, it’s the mountains that always call me back. Barely 24 hours after landing at Imam Khomeini International I was already plotting my path up though the fairy lights, dried fruit stalls and teahouses into another world - the Alborz Mountains.